I didn’t write last night because I couldn’t. My body had turned to a gelatinous bag of exhaustion—not to be too graphic. We had started happily enough cruising along the coast, envisioning a beautiful ride, swooping along the coast, kissing the Mediterranean from time to time and riding up and down the headlands. We didn’t realize that there were several mountain ranges between here and there.
When I say mountains, I don’t mean hills. I mean four separate ranges each between 1,800 and 2,700 feet with many significant rollers between. All told we probably climbed 14,000 feet. We had to cross each valley and then climb each mountain on the other side, down to sea level, and then back up again. Sometimes 1,300 feet, sometimes 2,700 feet. We did this about ten times.
As we cycled, we passed through a very rural section of Morocco where women wore large straw hats over the Chadors and young children rode mules up steep red rocky hills carry ten gallons of water.
The land was terraced and what sparse crops as could were eked out of the ground. Endless groves of olive trees, bounding tidy plots of tobacco, occasional almonds and some gnarled junipers, all struggled to cast a touch of shade here and there and their green contrasted sharply with the reddish-orange clay soil. The settlements were few and far between and built out of clay bricks from the surrounding soil or cinder blocks. Each one did have a mosque though, with brightly colored minarets pointing to the heavens.
On and on we went, and, truth be told, it all became too much. Near the end of the day, we crested a range and looked down into the next valley far below only to see in the distance our road climbing back up again, which we discovered later to be 2,700 feet. I started to lose it.
I truly do not think that I have ever been so physically challenged. The only way I made it was by promising myself that I never had to do this again. I told myself that I could quit, that my days of bike touring could be over. One pedal, then the next. Tears in my eyes and a ragged catch in my throat. I could not speak. My nether regions were on fire.
Finally we reached the top of our climb and coasted — for 10 miles, down to a seaside fishing town—El Jebha. Even coasting was painful.
We ate like wolverines, hot bowls of bessara and plates of calamari, and slept like hibernating bears. Last night, over dinner, we refused to speak of our plan for today, but now, as the day has dawned rainy and windy, we have decided to take a bus—to cross the next 50 miles of the coastal mountain range because there is no reason for further self flagellation.
Traveling in an Arabic country is fascinating, but it is a bit like watching a foreign film with no subtitles. I have many questions and no way to ask them. The people are so varied and the way of life, very different from anything I have known. There are very few women visible anywhere, not in the hotels, restaurants or parks. There is no toilet paper or sheets on the beds. There are more cats than I have ever seen anywhere—packs of them. Mules are tied to trees here and there by their fetlocks, looking dolefully out upon the land, awaiting their next task. Everyone is kind and typically treats me like an exotic and odd bird.
No matter how exhausted I am, I feel very awake. And let me just tell you how soft this bus seat is….
Smart move to switch to the bus! Be safe and rested.
Hope today’s travels were not so exotically painful.
Appreciate the update from a warm place as we
look at a high of 20 here today.
I’m so hoping that you decided against Duct tape this time!
Who is with you now? It looks very challenging! I am thankful for the pix.
Great idea to take the bus. Rest as much as possible.
Look forward to the next update.
Oh Leah, I absolutely love reading along with your travels!!!! It makes me feel as though I am right there, too! 🙂 I am so happy to hear things have worked out with bikes! It’s unfortunate to read that one comment from “Barbara” (I assume it’s not who they really are.) But, People everywhere are suffering to one degree or another, and all the news outlets do a fantastic job on sharing the negativity and suffering. Nobody wants that directly pointed out when visitors come traveling through and want to share their personal experiences, interactions and views. They want to share all the positive! And you going or not going doesn’t change a thing for those who are suffering. The world needs more positivity being shared!!! Unfortunately there will always be suffering, but that doesn’t mean one’s life needs to stop because somewhere out there, someone else is suffering. No, what helps those suffering is hearing about and seeing positivity and love! Exactly what you share with every update!! You are an absolutely incredible and beautiful person, and I love getting to “tag along” on your adventures! The way you detail everything makes it so much easier to close your eyes and get a really good sense of what you’re writing about!! I am sending all kinds of positive vibes, love and prayers your way for the rest of your journey! I look forward to hearing more from you and send hugs from the kids and I <3 We miss you!!!
Thank you for sharing your adventures. I enjoy reading them and they are a reminder I am definitely not as adventurous as you!!! You Go Girl😊🚴Wishing you safe travels❤️
Wow, I know it’s tiring to have biked up and down that coastal area – – I biked along the California coast and I was pooped. My ears would pop like 7 times during the day! Good idea to take the bus 50 miles down the way – I’m sure your body thanks you!!!!
I couldn’t do it. Kudos to you two. I hope for some flat and downhill rides for you.
Being kind to yourselves and exercising wisdom are great choices. You have nobody to impress.
Carry on if and as you see fit. Praying still.
Carole
Keep on trucking guys. Yay for the bus – good variety and wellness! Thank you for the glimpses of the journey. You rock!
You are very brave! When things get tough in my life, I often think about you.
Mountains can be daunting! We did a Swiss hike called the Haute route and the Swiss are avid hikers calling each peak an up and over experience. I do not envy your trip. Hang in there. There are other ways to see the country! Blessings on your journey!