We wake at dawn to a call to prayer emanating from the tower on the Mosque, right outside our hotel window. The Arabic song is deep and sonorous and reminiscent of a didgeridoo. It bellows from bull horns and bounces off the hills and throughout the town just as the sky is beginning to lighten. It is strangely comforting and makes us snuggle a little deeper under the covers as we listen to its mystical sound.
If I had known what the day ahead of us was going to entail, I might have heeded the call and prayed myself, but, sadly, I did not.
Today we climbed up and over the Rif Mountains to the Mediterranean coast. I had never heard of them, and perhaps did not take them seriously enough. The road wound up and up and with every meter of elevation came another knot of wind.
Yes, the wind. The force in this world that brings me most to my knees. It is the divine ego buster. “You think you are tough?” It seems to say, “Take this.” “You think you are so strong? Let me ratchet it up a little more.” By the time we were in the final rise of the mountain range, we were both walking. Gravel and dust blasted us from the rocky hillsides making it impossible to look up. If we tried to bike, it pushed us over. I had to pee, tears flooded my eyes. “You should have prayed,” the wind seems to taunt. I staggered and wove and several times was forced to spread my legs and take a gust like a line backer taking a hit. My arms ached. My ankle screamed. When we thought we couldn’t take anymore, we saw a sign indicating steep uphills ahead for the next 1.5 kilometers. The wind grew even stronger. Finally, after several hours of staggering, we crested the range and looked down at the blue Mediterranean far below. The view was absolutely magnificent. Yes, it was worth it.
Last night, before bed, we enjoyed Moroccan mint tea. It has become our nightly ritual. When we asked for the bill, we found that our cafe mates had paid for us. We thanked them and they went on to tell us that they had never seen any Americans in their town before. In fact, the only foreigners they had seen were a family from Finland several years ago and a solo Japanese man on a bike about 30 years ago. It is strangely refreshing that there are still parts of the world that we have not overrun.
Tonight, we sleep in Ajdir, on the shores of the Mediterranean, the fortress Peñon de Alhucemas — another disputed territory held by Spain since 1559 — just a few hundred meters offshore. We take a brief dip in the sea before heading back for mint tea and bed.
Wow, looks like wild, windy and rugged country you have traversed!! Glad you made it! 🙂
OMG after all that travail going up the mountain, I couldn’t believe the view at the top was worth it with all the agony! You are just amazing. I’ll pray for you guys everyday that it all goes well! (I’m not really religious, but you need all the help you can get! May your adventures cause NO hardship! Love you both, Barbara
I love reading your descriptive blog telling us in such detail what you see and feel. Even with every trial you find the beauty in all that you are seeing and doing. Be safe and I’ll continue to pray for both of you.
The Call to Prayer has always brought me a kind of solace. Sounds like it brought you a comforting blanket as well.
I found this quote on the wind:
“We all live in the same house, we all must be part of the effort to hold down our little house. When you see something that is not right, not fair, not just… do something about it. Say something. Have the courage. Have the backbone. Get in the way. Walk with the wind. It’s all going to work out.”
John Lewis
Buen Camino!
Love to follow you! Be safe and enjoy the experience for all of us who are with you in spirit. 🙂
Wow! Shades of Kansas winds—but this sound worse! Are you still on rental bikes or did yours arrive?
Pictures tell a thousand words!! Stunning pic looking down over the mountains!!
Oh dear. That photo of you on that gnarly windy climb is excruciating to look at. May the wind now be at your back.
wow!! <3 <3 <3
you two are amazing and inspirational!
You two are getting an up front and personal view of many wondrous things in our world. Even the wind has a divine purpose in God’s plan for our planet. It’s been a tough slog but still you push through. Inspirational is an understatement. Thanks for taking me/us along for the ride. I’m a friend of Dan and Dana. She tells me you’ve always had an adventures one spirit. I do not so I’m living vicariously through you and Twain. Praying for your safety and protection and even more kindnesses shown to you by strangers along the way. Carole Philadelphia PA