The bells are tolling and have been for hours. Tonight, I have stumbled upon the festival of The Moors and Christians in Bocairent. I of course had no idea that this existed, but here, it is of paramount importance.
I pedaled into my campsite after 55 miles with seriously aching knees, envisioning a mellow evening, with or without a real dinner, I was too tired to care, when my campground host let me know that was simply not to be the case. She told me that tonight was the most significant night in her town and I must walk back 15 minutes into the old city and experience this sacred day. Who could argue with that?
So, after quickly putting up my tent, and rinsing the grime from my face, I hustled out, back down the highway to the town square, where truly, I could not believe my eyes.
I was met with procession of nearly 3,000 people, all clad in ornate costumes representing the different historical troupes that have lived here. They marched in unison through the cobblestone streets, pressed together in narrow alleyways in the darkening evening. They each held two-foot-long tapered candles and as the sun went down, all the houses in the city kept their lights off so the candles were the only illumination, casting the shadows of the marchers along the plaster walls of the ancient buildings.
From time to time they would chant in unison “Vitol al Patró San Blai” (“Long live Saint Blai”), while marching bands played slow processional music. I was mesmerized.
It seemed everyone was participating, so I had plenty of space to slump down on a curb where I rubbed my aching knees and watched for hours. The intensity that everyone exhibited, the pride in who they were and the passion they shared was spellbinding.
Finally, my eyes clouded over with sleepy tears forcing me to get up dodge through the marchers and limp my way home. I never saw the end of the procession, I am not even sure there was one.
Even now as I sit here writing this in my cozy tent, the bells have not stopped tolling, the bands are still playing and occasional fireworks light up the sky.
I love the description of this and the photos are great. Hope you found rest though.
Leah- I think this quote (of yours) reflects everything that matters when adventuring: “…I, of course, had no idea that this existed, but here, it is of paramount importance.”
We travel, we observe, we explore, we engage, we ask, and if we’re open to it all, we discover. And most of what we discover is of paramount importance in another place, in another culture’s frame of reference. And, as a result, we grow, we become wiser, we become better people.
I am thrilled to share your journey..thankyou so much fie taking me along
It’s those magical, unexpected moments that are unforgettable when traveling. You can plan and schedule-but when you are offered an impromptu glimpse into another culture it feels like such gift!
Way better than fending off unwanted advances by sketchy men at the local pub! 😉
This sounds quite lovely. But, Boss, you’ve left a key unanswered question: what’s the deal with your knees?? Are
you trying to pedal with too much weight in your panniers? Too many hills? Not enough hydration? You just slow down for a day or two and let them recover!! 😛 Me? Bossy? Sometimes.
That’s a pretty cool event you witnessed! 🙂 🙂 Good you made the effort! 🙂
Now that’s serendipity!
I hope the bells will continue to sing in your heart, dear Leah. Your words continue to enchant and brighten my day! Stay safe.
Love.
Dorothea
Always enjoy the adventure of biking with you into amazing places.