The Hardest Part-Day 25 of my solo bike tour across South America

If I believed in such things, which I don’t, I would say that the world was teasing me, having some fun at my expense.

A thick fog blanketed the coast this morning, and as I rode towards the Pacific, I could not tell what was a distant hill or the sea. “Oh there, that must be it!” I would think as my legs burned from yet another climb, only to find moments later that no, that was not it. What I had thought was the ocean was only the misty blue of another rise. At one point, I turned directly away from the Pacific because I was being pulled by some siren song towards what seemed west. Thank God Ms. Kamoot was on my side that time and sternly turned me around.

I battled trucks, grit and highways, and felt like a clock inside me was winding down. Every hill felt too high, every truck too scary and every mile too far. All I wanted was to be done.

Then finally, I saw it—the mighty Pacific, slowly rolling in. I met it at a little sea side town that hadn’t woken up yet, so I biked right down to the beach and stuck my toes in the water and in the still, foggy silence, I waited to feel something.

I am a slow processor. There I was, the big finish, and actually, I was at a loss. Was I supposed to feel triumphant? I sure as heck felt lucky. Was I supposed to feel relieved? I really just felt a just little lost, a little bereft even. I called my husband Twain, “You made it!”, he crowed. I could not match his enthusiasm. What was wrong with me?


So, I had a coffee and I went for a bike ride.
Just a little up the coast, and then around the next bend, and just over a few rocky promontories. I am aware that my craving for movement has gotten out of hand, but I was looking for something and finally, I found it.

This place was not sleepy, here the waves were robust; frothing and crashing. The fog burned off and the colors were dancing both on the water and on the surrounding land. The houses were brightly painted and clung to the cliff sides. The plants held fast to the rocky soil; flowers, enormous succulents, cacti and palms swayed in the breeze. Here was the energy I needed to match mine. I felt better and although I couldn’t yet appreciate what I have accomplished—I could appreciate the beauty of this place.

Now I have cycled back to a small eco reserve where I will stay for two nights. It is quiet and filled with endless walking trails, enormous trees, dunes and beaches. I will try to remember how to be still with grace. I will hike about, that is for sure, but I won’t touch my bike. (except a little caress now and again)

It is hard to stop. That is the craziest thing. I love my home, my friends and family, and this has been really difficult, but still this part is hard. I am glad I have tomorrow to practice before I am truly finished.

41 thoughts on “The Hardest Part-Day 25 of my solo bike tour across South America”

  7. It’s wonderful to know you have arrived at the Pacific. Wishing you a smooth journey home.

  8. Congratulations! I have been following your daily writings and am impressed with your desire to and willingness to commit to this type of an adventure. Alone. I am a long distance cyclist with a long held desire to organize and ride a trip like yours. I physically could do it. It is the mental side that I struggle with beginning by missing home. So… I read your blog and put myself in your place while at home with my wife. Maybe some day….!

  9. Congratulations!!!!!
    You are a real powerhouse and I am forever newly impressed by you.
    Enjoy you moment here Leah. Savor the sea air, the cool breezes and hot coffee.
    ❤️❤️❤️

  10. Congratulations Leah! It will sink in when you are home and in the dank of Maine slush, you, unlike us, will be able to recall those beautiful experiences to get you through another dreary day. Soak it up! Hope to see you soon.
    Love,. Shanna

  12. Congratulations!!! That was an amazing ride and a gripping story. Thank you for sharing it all. Looking forward to seeing you back on our quiet little island. Cheers!!

  13. Not to give you any ideas, but have you heard of Dervla Murphy? She’s a kindred spirit of yours.

    Love to read your blog, thanks for sharing all the ups and downs.

    Karen

  14. Congrats on your achievement and blessings on the adventures to come…..thanks for sharing your journey with us, friend❤️

  17. Hooray!! Congratulations and can’t wait to hear more when you dip your toes back on Peaks!
    Cheers,
    Nancy, Scott and Bowie

  18. Congratulations 🎉 Cheers to you for safely completing your awesome journey by yourself! Thank you for sharing your experience with all of us😊

  19. Leah,
    What a beautiful story and a wonderful adventure to cherish in your memory for many years to come. I too can identify with setting and accomplishing a goal and thinking – now what?

    Bask in the glory of your accomplishment. You are an amazing woman. I hope to be more like you.

    Cheers and congrats!

    1. Congratulations Leah, impressive trip and a great success. Many are looking forward to your return to Peaks.

  20. ¡Felicidades Leah!

    I am in awe that you took on such a challenge solo! It takes great inner strength and great will to do so! Way to go!

  21. Congratulations! I am so happy for you and impressed by your courage and accomplishment. But, what am I going to read everyday now?

  23. Well done Sister!!! So thrilled for you and so excited about thinking of your embrace with Twain and your kids… the stories that they all want to hear first hand!!! 💕

  25. A big congratulations to you on this arduous, amazing trip!
    You succeeded, you conquered all your anxieties and fears and now , thank goodness, you will maybe relax? You are amazing!
    Love, Barbara

  31. Yea! Thank you for sharing both your wonderful journey and your beautiful insights. I admire your courage and sensitivity.

  32. Congratulations! You certainly have the qualities needed to see this dream come true. Thanks for all of the sharing you have done; you’ve had quite of group of “at home” adventurers with you. So, walk a bit, sit and have another cup of coffee, begin to relax …. maybe even a quick dunk in the Pacific (not just your toes). Then enjoy a safe trip home.

  33. I so look forward to seeing you,my free spirit. I have loved reading your diary and will miss those daily updates. Congratulations on a successful journey!

  34. Take it in! Reaching the end of your journey’s adventure with all the sky highs and depths of challenges. Thank you for sharing it all. We are all so proud to know you. Felicidades,
    Felicitaciones!

  35. Woot woot! Congrats Leah! It’s been fun to follow your journey, and so inspiring. Your fortitude, perseverance and ability to find the silver linings every day have been remarkable. Looking forward to hearing more about it when you return to Maine. Hope you have a great rest of trip! Big hugs and take a dip( maybe a surf?!) in the ocean for me.

  36. Congratulations, Leah! I have loved following your journey. I hope to meet you when we are on-island this summer…you are like a celebrity to me after reading your book and now your blog. You are such an inspiration! Enjoy the beauty of where you are!

  37. Yours is the first blog that has held my interest from beginning to end! It’s been such a joy. Well done! This last post reminds me of a principal in Buddhist philosophy that “craving causes suffering”. You’ve described perfectly what our dilemma is. You just completed an EPIC trip that we all envy, and at the end, you feel a sense of grief or loss. Craving more. It’s human nature but it’s crazy! Lol. I hope you can enjoy the accomplishment and feel contented.

  38. Congratulations on a triumphant trip. You’re a true adventurer and champion. Thank you so much for sharing your adventures with all of us. Rest, relax and enjoy some down time. Looking forward to seeing you when you return to Maine, also looking forward to your next book.
    Dee

  39. What a great trip you had. We are on a camping trip right now and have been following your blog religiously every day. We hiked the Appalachian Trail a few years ago and we’re amazed when some of our fellow hikers turned around and headed south again. Just couldn’t stop. Like one of the comments said “craving causes suffering.” but that’s the human condition. Safe trip back home.

  40. Oh Leah, thank you. I was a little weepy reading this. Thanks for your honesty in your beautiful words. You have given me lots to think about in this chapter and I can’t wait to walk with you so we can talk about it. Oh and congratulations you badass biker!

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