Camagüey to Ceigo de Avila
66 punishing miles
The word that keeps popping to mind is desiccated. The land between Camagüey and Ceigo de Avila is just that, and so am I.
There is a reason that tourists don’t frequent this area, at least not the rural country outside the oasis-like city centers. It is because they would shrivel up and blow away like the husks of seeds on the easterly breeze and there would be no one there to notice.
I mean no disrespect to the people here, in fact, quite the opposite. The farmers here are made of tough sinewy stuff, far tougher than little old me. Today’s stretch took me through parched cattle land, dusty pig farms and some suffering sugar and plantain fields. I saw leathery farmers out about on their horses and motor bikes and they would give me looks of incredulity before shooting out some sort of encouraging word.
There were only towns every 25 miles or so, and 25 miles is nearly two hours at my speed, so I had to pull out all my tricks.
I sang every single song I could think of until my throat got too dry. I didn’t let myself stop and check distance until I had gone at least an hour at a time. I made mixtures of protein powder and instant coffee and slurped this disgusting combination with a wrinkled nose. I used precious phone battery listening to the world’s worst downloaded music—Uptown Girl by Billy Joel and various Stevie Nicks tunes—I have no idea why they were on my phone but they saved me nonetheless.
When I passed through small towns (intersections really) there would reliably be a vendor selling dried beans and green plantains. Very unhelpful.
Sometimes, it is not about me engaging in the culture, it is simply about finding my inner will to put one pedal down and then the next.
However, tonight when I limped into town, I was met with yet another festive atmosphere, as if all the color and life missing in the countryside was bottled up and poured out here. The buildings are all painted with bright Caribbean pastels and the streets are brimming with rollerbladers, cyclists, ice cream vendors, pedestrian walkways and shady parks.
I found an outdoor cafe and I feasted on Yucca and Ensalada Mixta for dinner and treated myself to the finest of hotels for 20 dollars. I feel like a queen. A queen with very sore knees.
