Cycling Around Cuba 2026–Day Thirteen

Cabanas to Palma Rubia

45 Miles

We are sitting on a porch in a gentle breeze, surrounded by papayas, bananas and mango trees springing up out of the rich, red soil that this area is famed for. The sea and sky are both a brilliant blue and in the setting sun, the vibrancy of the colors makes everything seem to glow.

Today we pedaled up and over many rolling hills on deeply pitted and potholed roads. We cycled past rice fields, farms, rivers and small towns, the dilapidated surface making us pedal slowly and allowing us to take in all the small scenarios playing out on the sides of the road; the oxen pulling heavily laden carts side by side, the young teenagers clustered in the shade of small markets, wasting time in the best way, small puppies wrestling each other, horses munching on lush green grass, small pigs sprinting across the road, and children yelling out “Hola” as we passed by.

When we arrived at our casa, we headed directly to the coast and jumped in to the warm, salty water under the careful watch of a cheery ferry captain, Roberto. His boat was tied alongside the dock and he toasted us with rum when we emerged. We passed a bottle, taking small sips together while extolling the virtues of Cuba.

It was a day of perfection.

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