“We don’t have your bikes.”
My eyes are tearing and my face feels spongy. “Que?”
“Don’t worry, they will come on the next plane, maybe 5 o’clock.” The woman at the help desk smiles at us appeasingly. “We will deliver them to you.”
I am so tired from an overnight flight that landed us at 3 o’clock in the morning our time that I can’t really absorb this information, and through the fog in my brain, I just want to believe her. It is just a minor inconvenience, and all will be well by this evening, after a wee nap. So, off I wobble.
And it is indeed a wobble. Have I forgotten to tell you that I broke my ankle? It is ancient history though—nearly three weeks ago. I have crutched, booted, and limped my way since then and have found that bicycling is the most pain feee method of travel. Soon enough.
But guess what? Two days later and still no bikes. They are stuck in no man’s land, the purgatory where lost luggage circulates, round and round on conveyor belts or, worse yet, in dusty storage rooms with flickering neon lights, cheek to jowl with all the other lost causes. Maybe in Madrid’s sprawling airport, maybe still in Boston. None of the helpful folks at Iberia can venture a guess. My husband conjures the final scene in Raiders of the Lost Arc, where the covenant is stored in a vast warehouse with other anonymous crates.
But, let’s put that image aside. Let’s picture instead the Alhambra that I limped through while waiting for them to appear today.
I have never seen such majesty; the towering fortress walls, the vaulted ornate ceilings, the intricate tile work and the perfectly symmetrical gardens—so many cultures and histories colliding and building on each other here that it really puts a girl’s lost bike in perspective.
Or picture instead the city of Granada, full of sneaky cobblestone alleys and winding passageways that snake through the hillsides. Homes are nestled against steep slopes and some people even live in caves! That is where we stayed last night, an ancient Gypsy cave dug into a hillside and now finished with white-washed ceilings and walls and plumbing and a wee bit of electricity. Gypsies here are proud to be called Gitanos because their culture of strength, family and artistic expression is celebrated. Their music is everywhere.
Or if not that, just picture the Flamenco dancers who seem to rise from the earth here. Stomping and twirling and clapping with more passion than I have ever seen anywhere. They are reminiscent of the bower birds that David Attenborough features in his nature documentaries. You can’t look away as they dance with a furious passion what can only be called life, stamping and clapping and wailing, accompanied by a solo guitarist.
So, tonight we finally gave up on the good people at Iberia Airlines and rented bikes, and they are fine. A bit gomby perhaps, but they might just do the trick. If I had an awkward little sister, who needed wide tires and a sturdy frame to feel safe, this would be her bike, and I’m borrowing it to climb the Alpujarra mountains and pedal from Melilla to Tangier. It wants only a cane basket on the handlebars.
It is certain to be a different kind of adventure this time; a little Pippi Longstocking, a little Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang, a little Around the World in 80 Days. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings.
Oo. So sorry about the bike. Anyway the scenes are lovely w8th the tiled roofs and openness. What is the big star?
True adventure begins when plans fall apart! Enjoy!
I absolutely loved Granada. The old section seemed right out of the late 60s – early 70s.
Stay safe dear cousin. Have a wonderful, magical journey.
Oh gosh! Not a good way to start your adventure! :/ Hope they show up sometime!!
Life is just full of humbling adventures. Enjoy the ride. I see a book in all of this. Buen Camino my friend
I can send you a cane basket, Leah! I know where to find them. I’ll pick an airline other than Iberia, though.
gotta love it!!!!!!
Your off to a rough start, but remember, “Todays hardships are tomorrows adventures.” After all, if all went well, you would not have anything to write about in your next book.
Well that’s inconvenient. My friend put Apple Airtags into their luggage so that they could locate it anywhere it went. Seemed like overkill at the time, but it sure would have helped in a situation like yours. Hope they find your bikes, soon.
So sorry about your bike loss, but what a blessing to have seen so much already and been immersed in life in Spain in a good way! Wishing you continued blessings (and healing of your ankle!!) as you travel on.
Had the experience of five days delay of our bikes on a trip to Greece. I documented each call, each email, each trip to the airport. Also all expenses. The airline, and/or trip insurance if you have that, should reimburse for expenses of clothing, changes in lodging plans, the bike rental etc. You have to have all the documentation and submit it on their timeline though. I recall we had to fax something in at some point along the trip.
Best laid plans….Sorry you had a rough start! I hope things improve and the adventures continue!
Sorry, Leah to hear of these hassles. The story-telling to my ears suggests you are largely past this challenge and on to visualizing what you can do with your new circumstances. Next time, we will get you Apple Air tags, one of which you stash in a nook or cranny of each bike precious to you. They signal to your phone where they (and your bike) are in the world. That makes you the bearer of good news, instead of the receiver of bad news from airline administrators. Upward and onward. There are countless Alahambras to inhale.
poor poor you 🙁 to say nothing of the suffering in nearby nations.
What kind of comment is this? This is simply a person who does so much good in her life who has chosen to share an adventure in a way that brings lots of people joy. In this divisive, violent world, I’m sure you would rather help others find peace rather than insert conflict where it’s not necessary.
We all agree there is so much suffering in the world. All the best to you and warmth to all those suffering in this world.
BikeMum helps many of us have joy in our lives amidst the headlines and our personal lives.
Sorry to hear about the lost bikes but so glad you and Twain are together and this only adds to your adventures. Be safe and enjoy every bit of your adventure. Look forward to reading all about it in your blog and next book. Sending lots of love and prayers your way.
Oh the stories you’ll have. Happy you were able to rent bikes and get off your foot. We put air tags under our water bottle cages and in our luggage. Proved to be invaluable when we found lost luggage left at a difficult hotel! Travel well!