The Secrets that the Andes Hold-Day 21 of my solo bike tour across South America

Last night I couldn’t sleep, instead I drifted between excitement and anxiety, wondering what today would bring. Nevertheless, I slipped out of my bag in the predawn, because one thing was for certain, I wanted to avoid the afternoon wind that would only make my 6,000 foot elevation gain harder.

The road started climbing immediately, wending its way around bluffs and rocky outcroppings. There were no trees, just parched land strewn with boulders and sandy gravel.
The river I was following was chocolate brown. Occasionally, a straggly tree would be perched on the shore, but even these seemed to be struggling to gain a foothold.

Up and up the road climbed. When valley became too narrow to fit a road beside the river, the tunnels started. Nine tunnels so far, bored through rocks with no lights, no shoulder. When I would approach one, I would get as close as I could and strain my eyes looking back along the road to see if any cars or trucks were coming and then pedal like hell.

There were no towns. Traffic would come in bursts with five trucks and ten cars in a row. I got off the road when they came, grateful for an excuse to rest and drink. I couldn’t imagine where they were all going.

Another tunnel, a long one. My heart was in my throat and my breath came out in gasps. Sweat coated my skin with a rime-like layer of salt. And then finally, I burst through the other side and found the secret of the Andes.

The river valley opened up before me and created a wide, lush, fertile land. Where there had been gravel, drought and sand, now there were tall Poplars and Sycamores. The ground was covered with many shades of green, shoulder-high, grass that swayed in the cool breezes coming off the snow-capped peaks that surrounded it. The valley was endless.

Still I cycled up, but it was gentler now. Everything more forgiving; the slope, the cooler air, the shaded road. It was another world altogether.

Eventually, I made it to Uspallata, a town nestled in high end of this valley. To my surprise there were little markets, outdoor restaurants and even ice cream. People filled the streets, all here appreciating this beauty. This is where everyone had been heading! I sat down at the first cafe I saw and ordered some ravioli and a coke and ate like I had been starving for days. The air is shimmery, and I am only half way up, I am so curious as to what tomorrow will bring.

By the way, I did get my Malbec last night. I shared it with a retired Swiss humanitarian worker. One of the most interesting people I have met-well worth the wait!