Everything was different today. As I slowly climbed up towards the base of Andes, the desert scrub that I have been baking in for weeks, was replaced by vibrant, green vineyards. They were guarded by stately Poplar trees, that stood in rows, separating the fields and creating breaks from wind and water erosion-doing a job they seemed meant to do. The colors were rich and deep. The smell of life and growth was palpable.
And instead of the harsh sun beating down on me, today I rode in the shelter of massive Eucalyptus that lined the road. They filled the air with their sweet smell and the sound of all manner of birds singing and caterwauling amongst their branches.
There were small homes and fincas along the route, most likely housing the vineyard workers and their families, and many of them had signs along the road offering peaches, juices, plums and carrots.
Somebody even stopped me to ask were I was going IN ENGLISH for the first time on this trip. We stopped in the shelter of some trees and spoke for nearly half an hour.
From time to time, I would catch a glimpse of Aconcagua, through the trees. It is the 6th tallest peak in the world at 22,831 feet, so tall that I thought it was a cloud at first. Its snow capped peak seemed to float too high above the earth to possibly be connected to the ground. It felt like a beacon-pulling me-saying this way, come this way.
I am not homesick anymore. Maybe it is because of all this beauty, or maybe it is because of the kind words some of you shared with me. Or maybe it is because when I arrived at my campsite yesterday, exhausted and sweaty, I was greeted by a fellow traveler. He immediately kissed me on both my salty cheeks and offered me two oranges. What else does a person need?
Now, I am excited-scared too, of course, and humbled by these mountains, but I feel ready. My body has adapted. My legs are strong. My saddle-sores are healed. I have finally even adapted to the Argentinians crazy sleep schedule and I have learned to nap. First time in my life. I nap on park benches, I nap in the shade of trees, I nap with parties raging beside me. I feel rested. I also no longer feel like I will drop dead from heat stroke any moment. I am still bloody hot, but I don’t swell from the inside out anymore.
Tonight, I hope to find a glass of Malbec somewhere-this is the Malbec capital of the world after all. But, they don’t start serving until 10, so until then, I will take a dip in the campsite pool, relax in the shade, nap and think about those mountains.
Looks like a beautiful place to enjoy a glass of Malbec!
“Two-oranges. What else does anyone need?”
That, says it all.
Buen Camino!
This made me cry with joy for you!
Leah,
This story is so beautiful – I hang on every word. You are the bravest person I know (or don’t really know). Thank you for sharing your adventures. I am sending you strength and perserverance but I don’t think you need any from me. You are a strong woman and someone to look up to.
Happy adventures and thanks for sharing.
Go Get ’em, Leah! We’re all rooting for you.
this is great keep it up
I have read that those mountains are very contaminated, and you should be very cautious. Also careful about altitude sickness!
Go find that Malbec! This day sounds lovely and so refreshing – I even feel refreshed 🙂
Mom says boil the water. Sounds beautiful!
We shall share a glass of Malbec when you return! Maybe throw a bottle in your pannier?
oooh, can you recomend a Malbec?
Every day when I read your daily report I send you positive energy. After seeing your photo of the mountain peaks/clouds, I’ll send it twice a day!
“Created me with a kiss on each cheek and 🍊🍊” !!!! 💖 !!!!
You amaze me everyday Leah — strength, bravery, humor, honesty — thanks so much for sharing this so very interesting experience!
You have earned that glass of Malbec so enjoy!
Leah, thank you for sharing your adventure. You are and always have been strong, and not just physically. 💜 Keep biking forward, my friend. 🚵♀️
Wow so beautiful! You are getting to ride through those beauties! What an experience! You are ready! I can feel it through your words.
Love,
Shanna
Holy smokes my friend. The swell inside! Im so glad you made it to the mountains. Thanks for sharing it all!
Climb- ho!!
How to understand your body and be ready… feel so lucky to be listening to your stories!! 🍷