Wise Men-Day 14 of my solo bike tour across South America

After a wee-little siesta yesterday, I mosied outside to find a cup of coffee and think upon my situation. Bleary eyed, I stumbled into the first cafe I found and bellied up to the counter. I ordered a café negro con poco azúcar, hoping it would help bring me some clarity, and went to find a seat. As I sat down, I took a moment to take in my surroundings and I noticed that I happened to be the only female in the establishment. There were probably 17 or so men sitting around big tables, seemingly having a social hour together. Was this some sort of club? Sometimes my language barrier puts me in some confusing situations. No matter.

Soon the obvious proprietor of the cafe served me my coffee and gave me a big grin. I decided to take a swing at getting his opinion about which route I should take today. I told him about my bicycle trip and pulled out my map. He took great interest and showed a lot of concern about where I was and where I need to get to. He called over to some of the men at a nearby table and they spread my map out. There were a lot of charades, shaking of heads and Spanish words that even I understood thrown out. “Muy peligroso!”, and “Mucho tráfico!”, and “Camiones muy rápido!”

Basically, their answer was, “Whatever you think you are doing, don’t.” It became a veritable community forum.

So, off to the bus station I went. There they told me my bike wouldn’t fit in the bus. Again, I told my story, and before I knew it, the ticket salesman was conferring with the driver and made an exception that if I came to a certain bus tomorrow they would make it work. I am telling you-people are so nice.

With this matter cleared up, I was free to enjoy the evening in San Francisco, with no anxiety or early bedtime. I did as the locals do. I strolled the streets, window shopping until it got dark. I learned that the people of Argentina really love four things; shoes, sporting clothes, lingerie and pharmacies. I have never seen such a selection. Of course they were all independent business. No chains of any sort, and all the shops were open to the night air. It lent a party air.

Around 9:30 I sat down at an outdoor cafe for some ñoquis with crème sauce, read my book and people watched until nearly midnight. Only then did I roll on back to my hotel. Fat and happy, and grateful that I got to have this evening.

Now I sit on a bus, traveling 150 miles south to where better roads are promised. I feel vindicated because what I see out the window I would never want to bike on.
Tomorrow there will be hills, but today-I am really enjoying this nice plush seat.