I awake just as the sky lightens. It is early yet, but I am determined to beat the heat, so with a groan, I sit up, stuff my sleeping bag and begin preparing for the day.
I light my little Tangia alcohol stove to heat some water and while I wait I pack up my tent and organize my panniers. My bum is very sore, so I stow away my nasty, hot bike shorts complete with serious, sponge like, sweat absorbing padding and decide to wear regular old gym shorts-but not first without grabbing the duct tape and adhering it to the the sore spots on my derrière. Genius, right?
When the water is hot, I guzzle some instant coffee and inhale a bowl of granola with boxed chocolate milk. Delish. Time to go.
The first few hours of the ride are lovely. I ride the gentle, rolling hills full of optimism. It is still cool and I entertain myself by belting out songs that parallel my mood, “When you see the southern cross for the first time…”
By ten o’clock, I ready myself for the coming heat. I reslather sunscreen, change into my long sleeve cotton shirt, have a snack of a granola bar and continue.
As the heat builds, my singing lessens. I stop again in a half hour to take water from my stored liters and refill my accesible water bottles. I am hungry again- another granola bar-but as I fumble to retrieve one from my bag, the unthinkable happens. I knock over my water and it splashes out across the ground. Ack! I still have one liter to spare, but I have already drank two. No worries-I am sure I will pass a tienda soon.
Another half an hour passes. I am scared to drink my water until I see a place to replenish. Finally up ahead, I see a service station.
I careen in to door and am immediately awash in air conditioning. I don’t ever want to leave. The woman at the counter stares at me with some concern-perhaps it is because I am tomato red and my salted hair is slicked back against my forehead, and I am literally making a puddle of sweat on the floor. “Agua por favor?” I also buy another snack called a Triple-think triple-layer Little Debbie Snack filled with a carmel sauce and coated in chocolate. I stand in the shade of the shop-too embarrassed to remain inside-guzzling and gulping.
Back on the bike. These rolling hills seem to be more like rollar coaster hills. Another twenty minutes and I have to stop again. There is no shade except high up under the skirts of the occasional tall tree-but they are often difficult to reach. I notice my toes are getting sunburned. I wear flip flops when I bike-because everything else is too hot-so I lather more sunscreen on them.
I am now five miles from Carmelo-my destination-but it is high noon and I just won’t make it without another break. Luckily, I come upon a bus stop, complete with a tin roof and cement benches, all under the shade of a magnificent Eucalyptus.
I lie on a bench and feel the cool of the cement permeating my skin. Over head, parrots and fork-tailed birds that I don’t know screech and flit around. I just lie there-listening.
Back on my bike. Forward is the only way there. I make a rule that I can coast whenever I am going above ten miles an hour. Forward is forward.
At one thirty, I coast across a swing bridge and into town. There is no camping in Carmelo, so as a special treat, I get to stay in a hostel. Gabriel, the owner welcomes me in and soon hands me a towel, directing me to the shower. It feels so good until I try to take the duct tape off…Maybe that wasn’t such a good idea. It is cool here. There is a courtyard with grapes and pears, lemons and oranges.
Now I sit on my bed, where I will remain until this evening. I plan tomorrow’s route, write my blog and rest. Later I will explore the town.
I will go for a walk on the Rambla by the river, do some shopping for provisions, then find some dinner. Lastly I will call my family, read my book and go to sleep. Then I will do it all again tomorrow.
I am incredibly appreciative of everyone who has left an encouraging comments on this blog or on Facebook.
I cannot respond to you, but please know how much they mean to me. Every comment helps me go a little further. Thank you very, very much.
I look forward to your posts. Following along in your journey, wishing you joy, safety and adventure.
Such a treat to read these posts, Leah. Vicariously experiencing your adventure, can’t wait to hear what happens next.
you are certainly escaping winter anyway! I feel your heat and hope you have secure water supply. just where are you?
Thanks for the inspiring account and photos!
Good luck and keep going- coasting when possible is still cycling! 👏😅
Leah, you are a rock star! Keep signing loudly and pad that duct tape!! Love your writing, amazing you have the energy to so eloquently describe your day. Bike on!
Nancy & Scott and Bowie
ooops, SINGing loudly!!
Following you, enjoying your posts which, thanks to your writing acumen, gives us a window to what you’re seeing and a sense of what you’re thinking and feeling. A rhythm of a routine is seemingly starting to appear. It reminds me of the rhythm we experienced walking the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain; 35-days of being a full-time pilgrim. We put those hiking shoes on and greeted that new day with a sense of humility, hope, openness and excitement. Your path awaits you with open arms.
Sitting at my computer enjoying day 5 of your amazing adventure!! I am imagining the blistering heat as I get ready to take the dog for a walk in the embrace of my parka here in New England winter. Be safe and enjoy the high of the challenge.
I know I’m redundant , but OMG you are amazing! Willful, adventurous, an unbelievable inner strength you have! I love your daily blog! Hang in there for the joy, and I hope the pain passes quickly! Onward and onward! Love, Barbara T.
I’m really enjoying traveling with you (again!)
I’m an old friend of Taryn’s, from art school
You go girl! I love reading about your journey. You are a true HSBARS (hot shit bad ass rock star)
Ouch duct tape on your bum? I’m glad it helped you through the day though! Such a nice treat to stay at a hostel! I love seeing all the photos and thinking of you always.
Love reading about your journey! Please keep posting. And safe travels!
Princess of Peaks, I’ve been loving your posts.
Duct taping your butt?? Hmmm. Nope.
Looking forward to reading this adventure each day.
NH but lover/frequenter of Peaks
You go Leah! I am so happy for you and glad to hear you are doing ok. I love reading your words and learning of your adventures. Sending you strength. Thanks for sharing your adventure. Wish I could be this brave.
I am writing from Cambodia. Good to see another traveler working through problems. Oh, God! Just keep going Leah. You will make it.
Hi Leah! As my mother used to say when I mentioned something was hard: of course it’s hard; it’s supposed to be hard; if it wasn’t hard, everyone would be doing it.
As my mother says now: Sturdy On!
Go girl!
I have enjoyed reading about your grand adventure! As the miles come and go, your are a true rockstar. Some of us will live vicariously through your blogs. You are amazing!
You are amazing!!
❤️❤️❤️
My notes re bum (etc!) sores from reading lots of blogs:
* Rash – sudocreme, baby wipes, olive oil, Australian paw paw cream, chamois cream, blue emu cream, cornstarch, tea tree salve, noxzema, rose oil (stings a bit but heals by morning), melkfett, consider cutting back on carbohydrates and eat Mediterranean diet (reduce blood sugar). My own findings are polysporin to help heal and pre-emptively apply butt butter liberally & frequently + MUST WASH + DRY BIKE SHIRTS PROPERLY NIGHTLY to eliminate sweat & bacteria from remaining. Tough on the road. Good luck!
I’ve been following your every post! You are amazing! The heat sounds like hell but the scenery and all that goes with it sounds like heaven. You’re doing something extraordinary. Keep on, keeping on and stay safe, hydrated, cool (in more ways than one) and collected!
It’s scary when you are running out of water! Glad you made it to the gas station and hostel where you have provisions and rest! Good idea to get an early start!!
Drink a little water constantly and consume at least 100 calories of carbohydrates/hour while on the bike.
Go Bikemum!
Wow! I’m hoping the duct tape came off (olive oil) but if not maybe just leave it? Wishing you well on this incredible adventure! I love your writing!
Living vicariously through your travels. Love your writing and sense of humour. All the best for your incredible journey.
Wow! I live vicariously thru adventurers!
Way to go, Leah! You are doing it! I am I awe of you!
I’m here, Leah, enjoying and learning from it all without having to apply duct tape to my bum.
I love the parrots and that boy who lightened your load (of at least your mood) on the first day of biking. Those really rocky roads worried me. Not even sure what to say of the heat.
It would be great to see a map at some point. I have never been where you are and would love to have a better sense of just where it is.
Much love in your travels.
Great reflections! Keep it going. Your will is so strong.
love the lizard!!!!!
Encouraging Comments! Sure. Thanks for letting us live vicariously through your posts. Just so you know, my ride in to work was at 10F degrees this morning. Just in case you wanted to know what you are missing.
Your strength is amazing. So scary to run out of water. I am impressed by your McGiver use of duct tape but ouch. I swear by a gel seat! Keep on peddling Leah!
Every day I follow your adventures and traipse along, unseen, with you. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts – the good, the funny, the worrisome parts (like spilling the water), and all of the things you are seeing and experiencing. Your travels are enriching my life.
Leah, thanks for packing us in your bag and letting us come with you on this amazing adventure. This is so fun.