The Only Way to Go-Day 4 of my bike ride across South America.

My brain is rattling against the inside of my skull, the bolts on my bike threaten to unwind and the pots and pans crash around in my panniers like a badly played percussion set. I had no idea that Kamoot-my bicycle navigation system-would send me down roads like this. They are not just dirt, not just washboardy, but they are comprised of sand and grapefruit sized rocks. Seems like it is either this or the highway, so I will have to make it work. I will try to trust Ms. Kamoot. (She talks to me all day long and scolds me every time I leave the route-even for a second. She is just what I need, so we are becoming fast friends.)

As I bounce and shimmy down the road, I feel a little disheartened. This is really hard and slow, but luckily, as the day unfolds, there are many other more pleasant surprises.

Green parrots in flocks that reach the hundreds, chatter in the trees overhead. Fields of sunflowers stretch to the horizon. Horses and cows stand in the road watching me pass. They don’t move. Their coats are like satin and I am not sure why. I have never seen healthier livestock anywhere. Even the dogs that are allowed to roam free seem hale and hearty and they never chase me-they are like the people here, quiet, gentle and calm.
There are definitely gifts that come from taking the road less traveled and almost all of me appreciated them.

When I finally reached Colonia de Sacramento, I was truly exhausted. It is not my muscles so much, but the heat and the-um-rubbing, but before I could rest, the manger of the campground made be practice my spanish for half an hour. Entrance fee, I guess. As soon as he was finished I took a shower with all my clothes on-to wash them as well as me and now I am going to try not to move again.

Check out this road!

8 thoughts on “The Only Way to Go-Day 4 of my bike ride across South America.”

  1. What a day you have had! And I was feeling frustrated because I couldn’t remember the PW to access my $$ account. After taking a few long breaths I started all over again and got it right! But you can’t start all over until you’ve finished…and by then you won’t want to. We had what we called “the good dirt road” and “the bad dirt road” to access our cabin in the woods in Canada, a place you visited as a toddler. Our “bad dirt road” was a super highway compared me to the rock laden you maneuvered today. Did you get any flats and if not how come? You remain a model of endurance, my dear Leah!

    Love…and stay safe!
    Dorothea

  2. Stupendous! I will assume you did your homework and knew exactly what the roads would be like. Sojourn on young lady☺️

  3. Oh this takes me back to our own bike travels! The country sounds amazing! It takes a while to settle in to a journey, the tiredness you describe seems so familiar, that too seems to settle as you get into a groove. Thanks for your posts, safe travels x

  4. Thank you so much for taking us along on your trip. You are brave and this is a real adventure. The surprise of the terrain and roads is always present. The rewards are always worth it. Love the photos.

  5. Fabulous! Am enjoying your write-ups outlining your daily trips. Good for you! Aside from cycling in the US, the only other “trip cycling” I’ve done has been in Europe. I’m delighted you’ve made these posts. Keep ’em coming. And continued best of luck!

  6. So funny that Spanish lesson, before you could enter the camp ground …. Animal life … what a gift!! 🐝

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