How Does One Prepare for Biking Solo Across South America?

Number One. Get In Shape.

Up ahead, pedaling in an effortless, dancing-like way is Will. He is grinning and shaking his head in agreement to something Jess has just said. She laughs in return. Their legs continue churning, and their breathing remains light. The trees we pass are vibrant crimson, gold and orange, and the smell of the warm, damp forest floor rises up and blankets this perfect day. Some friends, my son and I are attempting a century ride-a one hundred mile bike ride along the coast of Maine and I can’t think of anywhere I would rather be, except for one problem. My son, Finn, bikes up next to me,”How are you feeling?” he asks.

“I am okay-just a little wheezy. I will be fine.” I can see in his eyes that he has a bit of doubt because it is apparent that I am struggling, but he just gives me a concerned smile and slips past. I believe that he can tell that I am trying to convince both of us, and is being kind by not pressing the issue-he knows there is no point and besides, it is obvious that I need to save my breath.

Two weeks ago, I came down with Covid. This was not part of my ‘Get ready for South America’ fitness plan. It left me weak, breathless, and muddle-headed. It also reminded me that I am middle-aged. My bounce became leaden, and my enthusiasm wained. I had thought I was special! Not so.

When we eventually finished the ride, there were cheers and pictures and big smiles all around. I believe it was well worth a little prolonged hacking. I am still not 100 percent, but I have time.

I am also getting my varicose veins repaired and a cavity filled. A tune-up of sorts before I go. I am not proud, nor a super athlete. just an old station wagon that still has miles to go and needs a little work to make the ride.

Number Two. Prepare Bike and Gear

I have fallen in love with my new touring bike. (Don’t tell my old one) It is a used Jamis Coda-a lively little steel-steed. Stuart-the mechanic at Lighthouse Bikes has added an extra “granny gear” to my bike to make climbing the Andes a little easier and replaced my tires with Marathon Schwalbes-tougher stuff for the broken pavement I will likely encounter. I am getting good. battery-powered lights and attaching the racks from my old touring bike to the new one and then, I should be good to go.

Number Three. Plan Route

I am pouring over the App Bikemap to find routes similar to what I want to do. I am not the first to ride from Montevideo, Uruguay to Valparaiso, Chile and I am not going blind. I am zooming in and out; looking up cities and roads, researching biking conditions and places to camp, looking at road grades and weather predictions. Sometimes this makes my head spin and sometimes it makes me feel calm. There is a blog called “Two Geezers Go South.” They were in their 70’s when the did it. And then there is the blog “Strangerless.” It is about a single woman from Finland who spent two years biking around South America solo, with the objective of seeking and sharing kindness.

Number Four. Learn Spanish

“Have you practiced the past-tense this week?” asks Tomasa, my online Guatemalan teacher.

“No, I haven’t. Lo siento. Yo soy muy ocupado.” She tsks at me.

“Verbos irregulars?” She asks.

“No-es muy difícil.” I respond, feeling a little sweaty and ill-prepared.

“How many weeks until you bicicleta en Sur America?”

So, I study to avoid further embarrassment and because it is actually fun. I study on DuoLingo for 20 minutes a day, I work in my Spanish workbook and I meet weekly with Tomasa online. This part of my brain has not been activated for a very long time and it is incredible to feel the synapses start to arch and burn as they reconnect and uncoil after their long nap.

Number Five. Stay Calm

Most the time I am excited, but sometimes I do get nervous. Most of these fears are irrational and it is work to not dwell on horror stories of adventure and travels gone wrong. There are tales out there of nightmares-come-true and if that is what you are looking for, that is what you will find. They get the most attention because people are fascinated by bad news, but did you know that the United States has a lower rating for safety than Uruguay, Argentina or Chile? It is an exercise to have hope and trust in others, not naivety.

Number Six. Devilish Details

Phone chargers, What’s App, Downloaded Maps, Changing Money, Crossing Border Documents, Bicycle Transport Regulations. Ugh. I don’t think that these horrible real-life things get a paragraph, They already take up too much of my time. I prefer to focus on the thrilling parts!

Please see “Changing Gears” by Leah Day to find further writings on bike travel for the every day person.