Today is hard to write about because it was a bit intense. I like to sugar-coat things and I have been called a toxic optimist, but today, I cried. It didn’t help much, so it didn’t last long, but there were tears.
I woke up cranky because my tent fly was STILL flapping in the wind. I knew a head wind today would be rough because I had to go 74 miles across the San Carlos Apache Reservation with limited services AND it was hilly. It deserved an early start to say the least.
I broke camp in the predawn and quietly wheeled my bike past the still sleeping RVers that had hung F**k Biden and F**k everyone that voted for him flags. I felt a bit like I was escaping some stronghold.
Once I hit the road I tried to bike quickly, knowing it was to be a long day. The landscape was lovely, but the wind was not. To make matters worse, 15 miles into the ride my seat post bolt suddenly sheared. I was sitting on it one second and on my panniers the next. It could have been much worse, I could have been badly hurt, but as it was I had to use quick-ties to temporarily hold it back on and wobble my way back the way I had come. The seat shimmied and leaned and I had to perch with one cheek and one cheek off for six miles back to a garage.
Luckily, there was a lovely man who had a bolt that would work, so before long I was ready to try again. As I got on my bike to go he looked concerned. “You aren’t still going to try to get to Globe today are you? Last thing you want to do is to get stuck out there on the res at night. People disappear out there.”
I pride myself on not stereo typing people, so I told him that they couldn’t be all bad and sallied off.
It was a slog, I was only able to make about eight miles an hour and it wasn’t long before I did the math and realized that there was no way I would make it, I had lost too much time. So big liberal me, was terrified.
I went to grab my map and triple check how far I had to go and realized it was gone. Lost. I turned off my phone to conserve batteries in case I needed it later for the map and feeling very alone, decided to go even faster.
The day was grueling. I felt like I couldn’t stop for lunch or take more than a two minute rest. I told myself that at five o’clock, an hour before dark, I would get a ride if I needed one.
After many exhausting and tense hours, I turned on my phone to check the time. I saw that it was time to make a plan AND, I realized I had no cell reception. Hitch hiking without a phone was too much. That is when the tears came.
Ten painful miles later I got to San Carlos. A town! I limped my way to the tribal police head quarters and stopped an man outside. With my voice wavering I told him that I was biking, there was no way I could go twenty-eight more miles to get to Globe, and did he have any idea of how I could get there. “No,” he said, ”There is no way.”
So, shaky and exhausted, I moved on. I saw an Apache a woman getting gas and thought in times like these, it is always better to go to a woman. I rode my bike right up in front of her Bronco. “Are you going to Globe?” I asked.
“No,” she said, ”but I will take you there.” And she did. She helped hoist my bike and panniers in the back, telling me that of course she wanted to help, that we all need help sometimes.
On the way she told me about her seven kids, Hoop dances and funeral rites. We talked about racism and climate change and the constant wildfires in the area. And she brought me here. The ugliest and most wonderful RV park that there ever was. Safe.
I love bike touring, and the truth is, sometimes there are just days like this. The thing that bums me out the most is that the ride was so beautiful and I was stuck in my snarly head of fear the whole time.
Omg. You are so brave and strong. And I thought I was the Legend! Know that there are good people out there that want to help.
Be safe and carry on!
I hope to start my own adventure soon!
Glad you were able to get a lift to Globe! Thank goodness for the lady driver who helped you!
Well done Leah! Just touring solo is really brave… surmounting mishaps mechanical or otherwise (fear and anxiety that I can so relate to) is so very courageous.
Hope you have been able to rest and sleep.
The pix are lovely… you did take the time to notice.
Stay strong, sister! I relate to the anguish of being stuck, and the joy of rescue by a Trail Angel. There absolutely are angels, and you just met one.
Keep going. You are an inspiration to those of us still sitting on the couch inside our heads of fear (that would be me I’m talking about)
Oh man, Leah, so sorry you had such a rough day. You’re right though, some days are like that. Thankfully the good, beautiful things outweighs the bad, ugly things.
I still wish you were riding west to east, but then so do you.
🙂
Thankful
Grateful
Relieved
Amazed
This had my heart pounding; you are something else. Yay you!!!!
Whew I felt all that with you. Great post, so glad you’re safe xxx
So glad you are safe, Leah! And that you met a kind soul, you would have done the same, good karma going around.
Good Luck today, stay strong!!
xNancy, Scott and Bowie
The only comments I can add is “WHEW!” … and God bless the Apache woman. You never know when you’ll be blessed and graced with true human kindness when you need it most. Hoping you have a better day today.
Phew! Yes, there are helpers out there! Hope you had a good sleep. Sorry about the stupid political signs. Hope today goes easier, can you give yourself a day off for repairs and rest? You are doing great!
Rough days are the building blocks of your strong character.
So glad you were able to find help and the kindness of the Apache woman. Praying you have a better day today and a restful nights sleep.
Any day that ends in a random act of kindness can’t be a totally bad day! Coincidentally yesterday was “Random act of kindness day” but I doubt she knew it.
I read your post when I was in bed last night…and got the shivers. Your courage is immense; your openness to the strangers among us makes everyone your friend. Be well, dear Leah; stay safe!
Amen to all above!
There are lots of miracles out there if we look for them. That woman was one of them. Your adventures is one miracle after the next. Love reading about all of this.
Thank you for sharing. I look forward to every blog note you write
“The thing that bums me out the most is that the ride was so beautiful and I was stuck in my snarly head of fear the whole time.”
This is “the nut,” the essence, isn’t it? It’s the story of one trying day on a bike and it’s also the story of how some choose to live their entire life. It’s the Israeli cab driver telling us not to go to Jordan-not to give “those guys” one shekel of our money. It’s the parent, playing their own racist tapes, telling their kid “it’s not safe” on that other side of the tracks. How do we shed other people’s biases and live a life of love?…Really appreciating your blog.
Women are the best!
Breakdowns are the worst. And haters, well, they just seem to be all around, just like the wind and uphills and broken seats. All just trying to block out the beauty and mess with our heads. Sometimes they win but at least you recognize it doesn’t have to be permanent. A small battle lost in a big war. Congratulations on your trip! Another one for the books! Speaking of which Congratulations on you first book coming out soon!!!
“stuck in your snarly head of fear” I know you felt that, and I felt through you, but also what stunning faith, wisdom and strength! Amazing. Good job.