Day Four on the Southern Tier Bicycle Route-Solo

There is a saying about the sea-the sea is a fickle lover. Well, I think the southern deserts of New Mexico make the ocean sound like Romeo.

Maybe it is because there used to be an inland sea here. If you squint carefully you can still see it-the sandy floor, coral like cacti, the wide expanses, but for sure you can see it in its temperamental nature.

Today, I woke again freezing, despite sleeping in all the clothes I have packed. Within hours, however, I was a sweaty mess, the sun searing my skin and forcing me to wear clothes that made me even hotter. Desert trick number one.

Then there is the wind. As I peaked over the continental divide, I saw the desert stretching out before me-a bicyclers dream. After so many days of hills and mountain passes, here was flat as far as the eye could see, and it was beautiful. My heart sang. Down and down I coasted, euphoric, spellbound by its beauty- the pink sands, platinum grasses and sentry like yucca. I was waiting to be welcomed into this desert I love, that I have missed…but no.

Instead the wind greeted me. not just a breeze hear and there, but a full on assault. The pink sand that had lain so quietly, came up off the desert floor creating clouds that reduced visibility so much that the cars used their headlights. Tumble weeds blasted by, some as big as my bike! Often I found myself barely doing four miles an hour despite a slow, gentle decline. It was ruthless.

There are no services in this area, so I was forced to continue on. Wind scares me. It makes me jittery and tense. And the desert had beckoned me so from above! Trick number two.

So tonight, I feel kissed by the beauty, but slapped by its power. I am sun burned, wind burned and dirty. Very, very dirty.

*A little disclaimer-I am only on the Southern Tier for a week! Wish it could be longer-that is why I dropped in in El Paso. I will finish in Phoenix.

*Thank you to those who have offered me support-I will respond to you when I get home. It means a lot to me

14 thoughts on “Day Four on the Southern Tier Bicycle Route-Solo”

  1. Sleep tight, Leah! and good luck tomorrow, Full Moon energy following you! Nancy, Scott and Bowie

  2. Wind is the worst, but that windstorm sounds horrible. Do you have sun sleeves? I wish you were riding east…..with the darned wind.
    So good that you are doing this.

  3. That sounds really challenging! Transformative! You didn’t say where you camped, hidden behind a rock or something? Hope today is an easier day. Your writing is wonderful.

  4. Hopefully, you’ll get some relief today after your into-the-wind day yesterday. Sending all good wishes.

  5. You continue to inspire, awe, and thrill me with your words and the deeds that inspire them. You remind us that the world is right there, waiting for us to stop, look and listen. Thank you, dear Leah.

  6. Not sure your location or route but SE AZ can have cruel wind/sand storms. The challenge is ON but you sound in good physical and mental shape! We are all confident you’ll fair well and be filled with satisfaction.

  7. Hi Leah I ride it the other direction , you are bringing it back to life for me love love it !
    And things that I will remember on my best trip …
    Love your writing !!

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