Day One on the Southern Bicycle Tier-Solo

On the flight to El Paso, I remembered, dispite the turbulence and hot, sweaty, mask I was wearing, why I love adventure. “I raise French Bulldogs.” my seat mate said. ”I sell them for 4,500 a puppy.”

“Wow, those must be some puppies, may I see a picture of one?”

“Sure!” she responded, and quickly started tapping through her phone, her fingers flying from one photo to the next. “I have to charge so much because they are very complicated, not only can they not give birth naturally-they need C-sections, but they also can’t mate. I have to give them artificial insemination.”

I couldn’t stop myself, I had to ask. “How do you do that?”

And as she continued tapping on the photos with her long, pointy, elegant nails she replied, “With my hands. One boy needs to bite me while I do it.” I was mesmerized.

When I debarked the plane, I stood in line at the baggage claim waiting for my bike alongside of a group of beautiful young women dressed in athletic gear from Texas Christian University. ”What do you guys play?” I asked.

“We rifle.” They said with a toss of their ponytails. I had no idea. As I hauled my bike box off the conveyor belt, they stepped up and grabbed gun case after gun case.

And then I met Claudia, my Uber driver. She spoke some English, and I speak a tiny, little Spanish, so we pieced together a conversation as she drove me to my hostel. “I have a great life,” she said “I drive grandmothers to the supermarket and doctors appointments somedays, and on other days I make videos for youtube and use them to teach Spanish speaking women carpentry. It helps them be more self sufficient.”

People are amazing, and I get to meet so many on these trips.


As far as the biking goes-I am feeling pretty chuffed. I rebuilt my bike, loaded it up and pedaled all day. The land here is dust dry, in fact the Rio Grande is all sand and I even saw families playing soccer in it. There are pecan trees as far as the eye can see-I think they are holding the Rio Grande in their branches. And judging from the way my bum felt at mile 70, I think some shells have found their way into my skivies.

Forgive my typos-I am writing with my thumbs in the cold. It is going down to 27 degrees tonight-Yikes!

14 thoughts on “Day One on the Southern Bicycle Tier-Solo”

  1. Just awesome! Safe travels, glad to be joining you vicariously on this next adventure.

  2. I am in awe of what you are doing. Looks like you can stretch out and do a number of yoga moves in that tent. Enjoy.

  3. Keep your posts coming … love reading them … and imagining myself cycling with you. I was able to get in two x-country rides (1991 and 1999) … and would love to do another, but since I’m now 84 my wife says “NO!” Bummer! Cheers, safe travels and wishing you fair winds.

  4. What a glorious read as I sit here in NH with giant fluffy snowflakes floating in the air after a sunny 58 degrees yesterday.
    Such a gift to have you share your adventure. Happy, exciting, and safe travels to you☮️❣️😊

  5. If you happen to come through Mississippi and have the time to swing by, the kids and I would ABSOLUTELY LOVE TO SEE YOU!! I hope you have a wonderful and safe trip! Can’t wait to follow along your journey!!!

  6. Strong start! If I read the maps at windy.com right, you have a lot of tailwind. It’s also been unseasonably warm out west, perfect weather for topping Emory Pass today.

    I’m loving your stories, especially of the people you’re meeting.

  7. Looks like you had an interesting first day – meeting the various people and then biking 70 miles! Pretty cold temps to be camping – but you’re used to it since you live in Maine! 🙂

  8. Love reading and following along with your adventures.
    Stay safe and please keep posting. Keeping you in my prayers

  9. Looks like another Mainer on the road! I’m heading west from El Paso next month after Covid stopped my trip March 2020. Thank you for your well written trip notes. Safe travels to you!

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