Cave-in-Rock

Looking out from within. Cave-in-Rock, Illinois

There are caves along the side of the Ohio river near Rosiclaire, Illinois that penetrate the sandstone bluffs for over 100 yards. They have wide mouths and tapering long tunnels that open up into ball room-sized cathedrals with vaulted ceilings and wide flat floors. Bank robbers and pirates used to hide out in them, I am sure. We could picture them with stashes of gold and banknotes, counting and calculating their next heists, peering out through the dark, cool hideouts to the bright, swiftly moving current of the Ohio River, waiting for the next ship, or barge to slip unsuspectingly into view. I often have a way of making everything seem more romantic especially the past.

Oakley and I spent an afternoon in the caves before passing into Kentucky. We didn’t find any hidden treasure except for the caves themselves, but none-the-less felt wealthier from the experience. It has been eleven months since our bicycle ride across the United States and every day I work to keep our experiences alive.

I have just finished writing a book called Cycle Back. It is about our cycling adventure as well as what it has been like to navigate life with a wild, impulsive, joyful son that has not always been able to fit in with mainstream society. He has taken me on a journey far further than just our three-month bike ride. One that I would never trade a minute of, despite the challenges and obstacles. I have spent my life chasing him and I will continue to do so, not only because I love him, but because the run continues to keep us both alive and awake with our eyes wide open. We are both extremely lucky.

Now we have been isolating on our island home for nearly 100 days. Our adventure has had to change shape and instead of traveling the world, we travel our yard, the beaches, and the coastal rocks, but now, it is becoming too much. Without enough stimulation, I become dull and Oakley begins to create stimulation in less than desirable ways. He is up to many of his old tricks. So, we will strike out again.

In two weeks we will bike from Portland, Maine to Ticonderoga, New York. We will cross the White Mountains and the Green Mountains, sally through New Hampshire and Vermont, and just see what happens. This time Oakley is excited. He knows when it is time to go. We will be collecting new stories and using this trip as a reboot.

I remember when we made it over The Ochoco Pass in Oregon when it was 104 degrees and we wore sweat like a blanket. God, Oaks was so mad at me when I wouldn’t stop for lunch until we made it to the top. Nothing could have been harder. But then we came down the other side into the basin-like desert where the stratifications in the rocks striped the land with ochre, mustard yellow, rust, and dusky blue. We sped down and down the serpentine mountain highway, the wind drying our sweat, cooling us, and making us grin with triumph.

Oakley does too. “That was crazy. It was like two different worlds.”

I remember when we ate nothing but peanut butter taco’s, Pringles and salad in a bag for a week and Oakley was wasting away, his eyes wan and cheeks gaunt. We were so hungry! And then we got to Breckenridge, Colorado, after an 80 mile ascent and found an upscale Thai restaurant. We waltzed in there, despite our grimy, stained, neon-yellow bike shirts and padded britches and ordered two Drunken Noodle meals. We ate them in rabid silence. They were the best Drunken Noodles ever, anywhere.

Oakley agrees, “They were so good, and the people were so nice. I think they gave us extra.”

And now this is hard too. But we will get through it. We both know it.

After leaving the caves on the bank of the Ohio river, we wheeled our bikes onto a simple, six-car ferry. We watched the brown water churn beneath us as we smoothly sailed to Kentucky. On the other side, we saw an Amish boy run down a path and literally skip across a footbridge that crossed a small stream. He wore a crisp sky-blue shirt, black trousers with suspenders, and a straw hat. He was barefoot and grinning. I wish he could have been Oakley’s friend.

33 thoughts on “Cave-in-Rock”

  1. And when is this trip planned? I knew you wouldn’t settle long. Make it down to Philly if the quarantine lifts.

  2. I’m in Meriden NH. Biker. If you need a bed, a shower, or a place to camp……this is available!

    1. Thank you, finding places to stay might be a challenge, so I might just give you a call…

  4. My son-in-law arrived in Breckenridge, CO yesterday after a 700+ mile bike trip…you two are a pair! When will your book be available?

  5. Great story! Look forward to the book. When in Ticonderoga go visit the fort – it just reopened. If you’re camping, just south of Fort TI on the west side of Lake George is Roger’s Rock campground… great swimming!

  7. Enjoyed reading this and so excited that you are going on another trip! Sounds perfect and just what the 2 of you need!

  8. Love that you and Oakley are sharing these adventures…you’ll remember and cherish these the rest of your lives!

  9. Once again I am in awe! Can’t wait to red your book and also to follow your blog on this new adventure.

  11. Undoubtedly, that boy would have been Oakleys friend! Cheers to you both once again! Hurrah! Another long bike ride . I Love that Oakley gives you a reason to tell stories, Leah.

  12. Yey I remember following your last trip. Good Luck , looking forward to those back flips again 🌹👏👏

  13. So excited that you are setting out again, and sharing your adventures. Love to you both❤️

  15. I came to your blog after reading snippets from the recent Adventure Cyclist magazine. I’ve read many a blog on bikepacking but I must say yours is the best written. I look forward to your book and further adventures. I did the Trans from Virginia to Pueblo but then switched over to the Western Express route from Pueblo to San Francisco in 2018. Utah and Nevada are definitely worth seeing by bike. Utah especially if you are so inclined. If you ever are in Sacramento, you are welcome at my house. I am also on Warmshowers.

    1. Thank you very much! The ride from Pueblo to San Francisco sounds fantastic. I would do it in a heart beat. This year, I need to stay close to home so we are riding from Portland Maine to, and around Lake Champlain. Part of it at least. We leave this weekend and I can truly hardly wait!

      1. I rode around Lake Champlain a couple summers ago. It was pretty hot and VERY hilly, especially on the NY side of Lake Champlain! Good campgrounds, scenic views, and good food!

        1. Thanks for the heads up. I was not envisioning hills around the lake. We need to get our pluck up. We leave Tuesday.

          1. It’s fairly flat going north of Burlington, but the NY side is very hilly. We crossed over to VT on the ferry from Ft. Ticonderoga, and there were hills on the VT side up to Burlington.

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